Côte Basque, a European grill, has taken over the space at Twenty-five Crossley Street in Melbourne, a site that has housed only three businesses in seven decades. The building originally opened in 1954 as Pellegrini’s Tavola Freddo Cantina, run by brothers Leo and Vildo Pellegrini.
From 1996 to its current iteration, the site was home to Becco, one of the city’s definitive fine diners. Now, Andrew McConnell and Jo McGann have transformed it into Côte Basque, with head chef Allan Eccles.
Sites with as much collective memory as this one can be a challenge, as the temptation to leave a mark and prove the new owners have arrived is strong. However, McConnell and McGann have taken a different approach.
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The original 1950s green terrazzo has been restored, and the cherrywood wall panelling remains. The stainless-steel framed windows, angled onto Crossley Street, have also been preserved, rather than being straightened as part of a renovation.
The tiered dining room, a defining feature of the space, has been kept intact. According to McConnell, “The dining room has a beautiful soul that reflects its history and the incredible hospitality that has been offered here for over 70 years.”
The new work at Côte Basque is characterized by restraint and confidence. A leather-lined bar anchors the entry, backed by a 12-metre mural by artist Magnus Reid. An open wood-fired grill sits at the centre of the plan, its heat and theatre now the room’s organizing principle.
The uppermost tier of the dining room has been curtained off as the Galleon Room, while 24 seats spill out onto the laneway, reinforcing Melbourne’s laneway culture. This is the fifth collaboration between McConnell, McGann, and their team, and their fluency shows.
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By preserving the original features of the site, Côte Basque has managed to create a space that feels both old and new. The restaurant’s commitment to restraint and confidence in its design has resulted in a unique atmosphere.
McConnell and McGann’s decision to preserve the original features of the site has paid off, resulting in a space that feels truly special.
The site’s history and significance demonstrate the importance of preserving our cultural heritage. The building originally opened in 1954 as Pellegrini’s Tavola Freddo Cantina, before passing to Nino Pangrazio and Sisto Malaspina in the 1970s, and then to Becco from 1996.
