what’s the suggestion for installation in this occasion. This is in response to Mr Danny Lipford’s statement relating to the installation of ceramic tile, porcelain or natural stone over a wood subfloor.
We are installing large porcelain tile (16″) in our bed room. My husband has gone beneath the house and determined that our joist spans are HUGE! More like 24 to 30 something which causes the floor to bow wen we stroll on it. Should we stabilize between the joists earlier than laying/putting in the cement backing and doing the tile work? Our concern is getting it all laid down, put in after which having the tiles/mortar crack once we walk across the ground or put our furnishings within the room.
ft. with the S.L.C. Would a hammer drill and tapcons be possible in this utility? My current flooring is 3/4″ Advantech subfloor with a 1/4″ layer of luan that is glued solid and stapled every 1-2 inches to it. Can I screw the HardiBacker board over the luan and subfloor?
Do I actually have to use a layer of thinset on prime of the luan before laying the HardiBacker, or can I just screw the HardiBacker down? I have engineered wood flooring in my entry method that glued all the way down to the slab/foundation . I wish to install 1/2″ thick stone tiles on the highest of the engineered wooden surface.
Unfortunately I was unable to have sufficient time to jack up the center red iron I-beam under the floor to aide within the leveling process for tile before the Granite Counter tops were put in. So to not compromise the granite seams and counter top stage I am utilizing Self Leveling Concrete. Website after website says do not connect backer board to self leveling concrete. Obviously, I would look previous this if it was solely an 1/eight″ – 1/four″ of S.L.C. But I actually have quite a lot of places where it is 5/eight″ – three/four″ thick.
- Use 1 1/4-inch corrosion-resistant roofing nails or 1 1/four-inch ribbed wafer-head screws in combination with a thinset mortar mattress to put in the backerboards.
- Because plywood’s smooth surface can swell and warp, many professionals also suggest putting in 1/4- or 1/2-inch-thick ceramic tile backerboards as an underlayment over wood subfloors.
- The fasteners should be put in every 6 to 8 inches on middle.
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Can anybody please inform me if this is completely needed and in that case, do I have to do it earlier than the tile is laid down or can I do it later. Being an expert carpenter I more than perceive the importance of level, plumb and sq..
Prepare a strong, squeak-free subfloor One of the keys to a protracted-lasting tile installation is the underlying subfloor. Whatever your subfloor is made of, be sure it’s squeak free prior to installing the cement board. Screwing the plywood all the way down to the ground joists ought to take care of most squeaks. In quick, installing cement board between concrete and tile is possible. But typically it is not worth the effort and it may even lead to a poor tile installation.
It’s best to examine with a pro to make sure you have the proper subfloor in place earlier than you unfold mortar and lay tile. Most owners spend $825 to $2,520, or a median of $1,672 on their tiling project. The common value to install tile flooring is $10 to $15 per sq. foot. Tiling a bathe or toilet walls run from $7 to $25 per square foot whereas putting in a tile backsplash prices $23 to $35 per square foot. An additional layer of ceramic tile adds substantial thickness to the flooring layer.
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In prep for tile work in my small 4×5 bathroom, I recently put down backer board over a brand new layer of plywood subfloor. I put adhesive mortar cement underneath the cement backer board then screwed the board down. The next day I got a crunchy sound when walking on components of the backer board. I imagine I didn’t mix in enough water within the adhesive cement combine. I was aiming for a “peanut butter” consistency, however by the point I got it on the floor it was probably too dry.